Osborne Builder's Studio: Challenge Coin/Medal Display Stand
In this video, we show you how to build a DIY challenge coin or medal display stand using components from Osborne. This project is simple to complete and is great for beginner to intermediate woodworkers. Follow along to build your own, and check out the links below for the products used!
Overall Dimensions: 12” x 6 5/16” x 6”
What We Used:
5/4 Project Lumber in Pine (Part #148654)
Embossed Center Ornament Onlay (Part# 8911520)
1” Embossed Leaf Moulding (Part #891440)
Other Itemsd Needed:
| • Miter Saw | • Table Saw | • Band Saw or Jigsaw |
| • Router | • Drill | • Doweling Jig & Dowels |
| • Angle Gauge | • Wood Glue | • Pin Nailer |
Cut List:
| Material - 5/4 Lumber | Quantity | Size |
| Back Panel | 1 | 12" x 6" x 1/2" |
| Sides | 2 | 5 13/16" x 3" x 1" |
| Middle Display | 1 | 10" x 6" x 1" |
| Moulding | 1 | 10" |
Assembly Instructions
Step 1
Begin by milling the 5/4 Project Lumber in Pine down to its final thickness of 1”.
Step 2
Once this has been milled, cut two of the pieces to 8 inches to use for the sides of the stand. Then cut a middle board at 10 inches long and the back board to 12 inches.
Step 3
Once everything is cut to length, plane the back piece down to ½” to give it a thinner profile.
Step 4
Begin marking angles on the side panels to hold medals in the correct position. The sides will be cut at a 14 degree angle. Once the side angles have been cut, cut off 2 3/16” from the end of each side to allow for the middle board and the moulding that will be added to the end later.
Step 5
Mark out cut lines for each slot to hold the coins. Space each slot at 1 inch apart and cut those channels using a table saw. Set your blade at a 14 degree angle, with a cutting depth of ¼”. Make two passes through each channel, for a total slot width of 3/16”. The final cut for the middle board is to match the 14 degree angle on both edges, this will allow it to sit flush against the back piece, while still holding the correct angles.
Step 6
To begin assembling the stand, start by making some marks on both the middle and each side boards to make sure two dowels will each line up properly within the piece.
Step 7
Double check your marks based on the project dimensions, as the pieces will sit at a unique angle.
Step 8
Use a doweling jig to make the holes for the dowels in each piece. When holes have been drilled, use a bit of wood glue to insert the dowels into the holes. When all parts have been connected, secure them with a clamp.
Step 9
While that is drying, begin marking out the location for the embossed onlay, which will be added to the back piece. Create a center mark for the onlay and lightly trace the outline of the onlay where it will sit. Use a small can or any other circular object to mark out the rounded edge for each of the corners of the back piece.
Step 10
Once corners have been marked, cut them off using a band saw or a jig saw.
Step 11
Add some wood glue to the back side of the onlay and center it to the middle of the board, making sure to use a light amount of wood glue. Once the onlay is in place, secure using a pin nailer then wait for it to dry.
Step 12
Add a small roundover to the sides of the stand to give it a softer profile. Make sure to do this before full assembly of the stand.
Step 13
Add some wood glue to the stand and position it to the back panel. Attach the panel using a stapler, or the method of your choice to secure it.
Step 14
Cut the embossed moulding to 10 inches to match the front edge. Add some wood glue to the back of the moulding and attach to the front of the stand. Secure using a pin nailer.
Step 15
To finish this project, sand the stand down to 150 grit and apply the finish of your choice.
