Osborne Builder's Studio: Shoe Cabinet with Flip Drawers

Cut plywood and side panels to final lengths and assemble the main box with wood glue. It is important to ensure everything is lined up because that will determine how square the project will end up.

Take note of the measurements needed for the face frame boards. Cut four pieces for the outer frame and one piece for the middle divider. To assemble, add pocket holes from the back side and connect boards before attaching to the cabinet. Make sure each corner is square and flush. To attach the face frame, add wood glue and secure it with a nailer.

Work on the flip out doors next, starting with the door faces. Cut them to a slightly oversized length and bring them to a rough thickness. Glue the two panels together by adding glue to the edge of the panels. It is best to wait until they are dry to bring them down to your final dimensions. Once the panels are dry, bring them down to ¾” to help simplify the measurements when adding the pivot points for the doors. Next, cut them to their final length referencing the cut list above.

Test fit the door faces in the cabinet. Make a mark on the face frame for where the pivot point will be located. Drill a pilot hole into the door faces using the marks you created earlier. Drill deep enough for a secure attachment. Next, drill corresponding dowel holes to insert them from the outside edge of the face frame. Test fit the dowels before continuing. Once the dowels are installed, the doors should open smoothly.

Use leftover plywood to build the storage part of the cabinet doors. The interior depth is 8” with three plywood supports and one plywood bottom.

For the supports, cut an arch on the back side to prevent contact with the face frame when opening the doors. The size for this is not as important. Add wood glue to the face and secure it to the panel. Install the supports on the edge, tacking them in place with a stapler. For the center support, center and make sure it is square before attaching. The last step is to add a small support on the back side with leftover wood to prevent your shoes from falling.

Install doors on the cabinet assembly by adding wood glue to the holes created earlier. To keep the doors from falling, add wooden stops on the back of the face frame to hold them in place. The last step is to add a dowel that will catch the back of the face frame as the doors are being pulled.

Before securing, install the bun feet using a wood screw or leg mounting hardware on our website. Once installed, you can add the dowels and complete the assembly of the cabinet interior. Cut the dowels flush with a jigsaw or a flush cut saw and a palm sander.

Next, cut lumber for the tabletop to a rough length and thickness. While the tabletop is drying, sand the outside of the cabinet to 150 grit. After the top is dry, bring down to the final thickness and length.

Add moulding around the top of the cabinet with wood glue and nailer for an extra decorative look.

Add a finish to the tabletop and cabinet separately, paint the cabinet, and add any additional details.

Finally, attach the tabletop by screwing with a high quality wood drill. Pre-drill to avoid splitting. Now that the inside is complete, add the backboard that will seal it closed. The last step is to add the door pulls on the outside of the cabinet. Mark out and pre-drill accordingly. And now your shoe cabinet is complete!