Builder's Studio: Modern Wine Cabinet
In this episode, we show you how to build this modern wine storage cabinet using our wine rack lattice trimmed down to fit the cabinet size. These panels allow you to create your own custom wine rack or cabinet and can be cut to length depending on your project needs. Our Wine Rack Lattice is available in either Red Oak or Hard Maple and can be painted or stained to your choosing. To create the top and bottom for this cabinet, we used the 5/4 Lumber in Hard Maple. This lumber is great for creating panels and tables tops as it is available in 12 different wood species. We also used square dining table legs and round bun feet to complete this project. The modern design is sure to impress your guests while acting as a useful storage component in your space.
Products Used In This Build:
- Wine Rack Lattice (Part #73005)
- 96" 5/4 Lumber (Part #196654)
- Square Dining Table Leg 29" x 3 1/2" (Part #2290003500)
- Apple Round Bun Feet (Part #4002)
Assembly Instructions
Overall Dimensions: 35 ½” x 12” x 35”
Included:
| • Wine Rack Cabinetry Lattice (Part #73005) - 28" × 36" × 1" | • Square Dining Table Leg (Part #2290003500) - 29" × 3 ½" × 3 ½" |
| • Apple Round Bun Foot (Part #4002) - 4" × 3 ⁵/₁₆" × 3 ⁵/₁₆" | • 5/4 Lumber (Part #196654) - 1 ¼" × 6" × 96" |
You will need:
| • Wood Glue | • Miter Saw | • Proper Safety Equipment |
| • Screws | • Ruler | • Writing Utensil |
| • Router Table | • Measuring Tape | • Planer |
| • Sander | • Pocket Hole Jig | • Power Drill |
Instructions:
First create a channel into the side of the legs for the wine rack lattice. Make sure it is the same width as the wine rack lattice (15/16”). Create reference marks on the legs so that they can be transferred to the router table. NOTE: The depth will determine how far the wine rack will sit inside the leg.
At the router table, use a standard spiral cutting bit and slowly raise it up to the desired depth. This will allow you to cut from the bottom. After adjusting the height of the cutting bit, set the fence to the marks created on the legs and run them through the routing table. NOTE: For this build, we created a channel that is 1” deep and took off a quarter inch of a time to make sure that we didn’t overload the routing bit. How much you do at a time depends on how deep your channel is.
Next, dry fit the cut channels and the wine lattice to pull measurements from the bottom and top. The wine rack should be flush with the top of the leg. Mark this at 29” and cut off excess of the wine rack on the miter saw.
Dry fit the legs and wine racks together again and pull measurements for the width of the top and bottom panels. The interior space between the wine racks should be 6” to allow for proper bottle size. NOTE: In this build, we also measured for a 1” overhang on the front-end sides with a flush back.
To start building the panels, grab the lumber and rough cut the boards down to the final length. Leave them slightly oversized. Since the boards are 6” wide each, they will be glued together to create a 12” wide panel.
Next, figure out the desired orientation of each board and run them through the planer for an overall thickness of 1 1/4” and then remove the rest of the quarter inch when the panels are completely glued up for a seamless look (occurs in Step 9).
Lay out the panels in the correct orientation and add wood glue to each seam. This will create the 12” wide panel. Lay the panels on clamps before proceeding to glue them together. The joinery you use depends on your preference.
Once the glue is properly spread, clamp them together to ensure that the boards will be sufficiently adhered to one another.
Next, after the glue dries, put the board through the planer to remove that final quarter inch that was mentioned in Step 7. NOTE: It is best to first remove any excess glue on the boards before using the planer. This will help the blade avoid any damage.
Once the panels are surfaced, cut them to the final length of 35 ½” on a Miter saw.
Add a small roundover on the top edges to soften them up and give them a modern look. NOTE: This step is completely optional. It is up to your preference if you wish to give your panel edges a roundover.
Sand both panels to 220 grit and get them ready for finishing. You can then proceed to sand your table legs. This can be done by hand if you want to give the edges of the legs a softer look.
To help with assembly, cut some small 4” pieces from scrap lumber to create something similar to a skirt or table apron. Add a couple of pocket holes to each piece and attach them on the sides in between the legs. These will help keep your legs properly spaced front to back when assembling the cabinet.
Install the blocks to the inside of the legs. You can use a scrap block to raise and hold the block up to the area you want to install. Lock the legs and block together using a clamp to ensure that they do not move. Proceed to then install the screws into the pocket holes of the block using a drill.
Before assembling the cabinet, you can pre-finish every piece with a stain of your choice.
To begin assembling the cabinet, first install the bun feet from the top side of the bottom panel. These screws will be covered by the legs so it's important to install these first. Measure and predrill the panel to avoid cracking the wood. Then, proceed to install a longer screw straight into the bun foot, attaching it to the panel.
Next, begin installing the legs. The easiest way to do this is to lay them on their back on the work surface so that everything can be lined up flush. Slide the wine racks into place and make sure that the legs are properly spaced before attaching. NOTE: The bottom panel will have the 1” overhang on the front and sides previously done in Step 5.
Next, since the bottom of the cabinet will not be seen, you can pre-drill and install a screw into the bottom of the leg. Be sure to avoid the inside channel.
To install the top, be sure to insert the wine racks into place if removed and then measure for a 1” overhang on the front and sides again.
Then, pre-drill using a 2-step bit before attaching. Measure and mark before drilling to ensure that they are in the same location and will avoid the inside channel. NOTE: A plug will be used on the top since the screws will be visible. The plugs were created using a scrap piece of lumber and a plug-cutting bit.
Insert a plug to hide the screws. You can add glue to the top of the screw and then insert and press firmly down on the plug to adhere it. NOTE: Be sure that the top of the screw is inside the top panel so that plugs can be properly inserted.
Once the glue on the plugs have dried, you can sand them flush with the surface. Then, you can add finish to the rest of the top.
You have completed your wine cabinet. We hope you had fun building something beautiful!