Builder's Studio: DIY Extension Table Kit Assembly

In Part 1 of this build, Tim gives you a close look at Osborne's NEW Lakeland Single Leaf Extension Dining Table Kit (Part #507334)! This kit comes with everything you need to build your own DIY Extension Dining Table. With the removable 12" leaf, this table kit will accommodate a wide range of uses in your dining room. This kit features our popular Osborne Standard Table Slides for an effortless transition to a full size table. Paired with our beautiful Lakeland Dining Table Legs, this piece is sure to be a conversation starter in your home.

FULL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS BELOW

In Part 2 of this build, we show you how to install Osborne Table Slides! We also explain how to install Table Top Alignment Locks and Table Leaf Levelers! These pieces are essential to a quality extension table and are sure to increase the longevity of your piece. In order to keep your table functioning properly, these parts keep your extension table aligned each time you open it! With the new Lakeland Single Leaf Table Kit, you will receive all three of these high quality components!

FULL ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS BELOW

Assembly Instructions

Included:

You will need:
  • Wood glue
  • Drill
  • Drill bit
  • Tape measure
  • Wrench
  • Hammer
  • Ruler
  • Writing utensil
  • Scrap wood (optional)
  • Saw (optional)

Instructions:

  1. Build the two halves of the table base by attaching the skirt boards to the dining table legs. The skirt boards and legs feature mortise and tenon joints for easy attachment. We recommend dry fitting each piece first.
    1. Note: The two skirt boards that have tenons on both sides are for each end of the table. The four additional skirt boards only have tenons on one side. This tenon attaches to the dining table leg. The flat surface on the other end of the skirt board will sit flush with the other half of the table base or the table leaf when the table is extended.
  2. After dry fitting, apply wood glue inside each mortise and attach the skirt boards to the legs. Next, use the pre drilled pocket holes to drill screws into each leg and firmly secure the table skirt boards.
  3. Once you have both halves assembled (each half will include two dining table legs and three skirt boards), you are ready to attach the bases to the table top.
  4. The table top will be disassembled with two halves. Place the table top face down on your work surface and push the two halves together (hardware and pre drilled holes are available for easy attachment).
  5. Next, you can attach your two base halves to the table top. It is important to center the bases accurately on the bottom of your table top. To do so, we measured the entire length of the table base (we measured 25 ¼” for the table base end). Mark that same distance on your table top. Now, measure the remaining length of the table top from that mark (this will tell you how much excess length the table top has for overhang). Divide that amount by two to determine the overhang size necessary for each end of the table.
  6. Measure and mark your overhang near both ends of the table as well as near the center to provide plenty of guidance for attaching your bases.
  7. Before attaching the base, you will want to attach the table skirt support brackets. Set these back from the apron edge about 1/16” of an inch so that it does not possibly come in contact with anything in the center of the table. Be sure that the squared end of the skirt boards are also 1/16” from the edge. Attach two support brackets to each of the side skirt boards.
    1. Note: it is recommended to keep the table top disassembled for the following steps.
  8. Now secure the base to the table top using your marks as a guide. Use the screw holes in the table skirt support brackets as well as the pocket holes in the skirt boards to secure the base. Do this with both base halves.
  9. Attach the wooden corner blocks to the skirt boards and table legs. There is a center bolt and washer that will be attached first into the corner of each leg (do not tighten fully). Use the four screw holes in the corner block to attach the block to the skirt boards. Use a wrench to tighten the center bolt into the legs.
  10. If you did not disassemble the table top before attaching the base, you must disassemble it now to work with the table top leaf. Place the leaf face down on your work surface. Mark the same overhang on the bottom of the leaf. You will have two small skirt boards for the leaf and additional table skirt support brackets. Attach one table top support bracket to each end of the skirt boards, approximately 1/16” inch from the edge.
  11. Use your overhang measurements to determine where the skirt boards should sit on the leaf. Attach the skirt boards to the leaf using the table skirt support brackets and the pocket holes in the skirt boards.
    1. Alignment pins will already be installed in the leaf for easy attachment to the table top.
  12. Next, you will install the table slides. There will be a left and right slide in the set. These can go on either side of the table but it is most important to have one of each. We will also be adding table top alignment locks (which will go in the very center of the table top) and leaf levelers (which will go between the table slides and table skirt support brackets). Placing these where they will be installed will help determine where the table slides need to be. Our table slides were placed 6” in from the skirt boards. Make marks around the slides to use as a guide when installing.
  13. We used a scrap piece of wood trimmed to fit in between the table slides in order to keep them parallel during attachment.
  14. The table slides will be completely condensed. Before installing, it is important to open the slides slightly (around ⅛” - ¼” of an inch). This allows for wood movement of the table top over time.
  15. Measure and mark the center point of the slides and line that up with the table top joint. Make sure the slides are also lined up with the marks you made on the table top earlier.
  16. Take 1 ¾” screws and attach the slides to the table top by using the countersunk screw holes in the slides.
    1. Note: These table slides will accommodate two 12” leaves (only one is included in the kit).
  17. Extend the base and insert the leaf. Next, you will be installing the leaf levelers and alignment locks. You will need a total of four leaf levelers for this table. They need to be installed in opposing directions and be placed on top of the leaf and table top joints. Make sure that these will not hit each other when the table does not have the leaf installed by installing one leveler closer to the slides and the other closer to the table skirt support brackets. Attach these by first hammering them into the wood and then inserting the center screw.
  18. Now you will attach the table top alignment locks. This is typically attached on the outside of the skirt boards but this build will work better if the lock is installed in the very center of the table top. Draw a straight line in the center of the table (parallel to the table slides) that goes across both table top/leaf joints.
  19. The table top locks are composed of two pieces (one with a rotating mechanism and one base piece). The base piece will have two small lines that should be lined up with the table top/leaf joint. Also, make sure the piece is centered with the line you drew in the previous step.
    1. Note: The table top locks will need to be installed so that when the leaf is taken out, the locks for the condensed table will also line up.
  20. Attach the base pieces with the included screws. Place the piece with the rotating mechanism so that it fits snug with the base piece. Attach this with the included screws.
    1. Note: Attach one lock on each table top/leaf joint (you will need two locks). Make sure they are installed in the same direction.
  21. Your table assembly is now complete and all components can be finished according to your preference. You will not have a full extendable dining table for your home!


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